Screwys Recipe #57a - Screwy Pale Ale (All Grain)

After sampling this beer last week I thought it tasted so good that I brewed this exact same recipe again this past weekend. I was trying to decide what to brew and kept coming back to this Screwy Pale Ale because I think it's going to be a winner. So I emailed my order over to Joe early Sunday morning, drove out to pick it up and was brewing beer by lunchtime.

Marris Otter, Crystal 60 And Biscuit Malts

Size 5.00 gallons: Estimated IBU=65, SRM=14, OG=1.062, FG=1.015, ABV= 6.0%

I pitched White Labs WLP005 - British Ale Yeast™ directly into the 70F wort right after aerating it. I soaked the tubes in One-Step as an extra precaution against infection.

Recipe:

Click to download this recipe file for qBrew 
9.0 pounds Marris Otter Malt (UK)

1.75 pounds Crystal 60L

0.25 pounds Biscuit Malt (Belgium)

1 ounce Yakima Magnum (pellets)

2 ounces Kent Golding (UK) (pellets)

1 ounce Cascade (pellets)

1 - White Labs WLP005 - British Ale Yeast™

Aerate, pitch at 70° F and ferment at 68° F until final gravity is reached

Raise to 70° F over 2 days and rack to secondary fermenter

Cold condition secondary fermenter for 1 week at 34° F

Keg at 30 psi for 2-3 days and serve at 34° F

Infusion Mash at 156° F for 60 minutes.

Boil for 60-90 minutes.

Ferment at 68° F (18.8 °C).

The only real change I made in the ingredients was with my yeast selection, this time I was able to use some really fresh White Labs WLP005 - British Ale Yeast™ as opposed to the Safale S-04 Dry Ale Yeast I used last week. After soaking the new WLP005 tube in 70F One-Step I used an empty tube from an earlier brew to measure the yeast out into 2 tubes, one for each of my 2 fermenters.

2 For 1 Economy

Since I use the Mr. Beer fermenters and they hold around 2.5 gallons of wort I can use half of the yeast that's packaged for 5 gallon brews and still get a high cell count. I see this as another low risk way to save money on ingredients while maintaining quality.

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Directions:  

Infusion Mash: (Soak tun in 8 quarts of 170° F water for 20 minutes and dump it to preheat tun)

Heat 20 quarts of filtered water to 172° F

Pour 14 quarts of 172° F water into mash tun

Mix in 11.0 pounds of crushed grain mix at 70° F

Pour the remaining 172° F water to fill mash tun to 4.50 gallon mark

Stir water and grain mixture and adjust to 156°F and mash for 60 minutes

Fly sparge with 168° F strike water to set mash bed to 168° F

Lauter for 30 minutes adding 11.5 quarts of sweet wort to both 12 quart boil pots

Full Wort Boil: (Split these quantities between both boil pots)

Add 1 ounce Magnum hops with 60 minutes remaining to boil

Add 2 ounces Kent Goldings (U.K.) hops with 20 minutes minutes remaining to boil

Add 1/2 tablet WhirlFloc with 9 minutes remaining to boil

Add 1 ounce Cascade hops with 7 minutes remaining to boil

Use wort chiller to cool wort to 70° F

Primary Fermentation:

Use auto-siphon to rack wort from boil pots to fermenters

Fill the Mr. Beer fermenter with wort to just above the 8.5 quart mark

Aerate wort and pitch 1 tube White Labs WLP005 - British Ale Yeast™ at 68-70° F

Ferment to final gravity then raise to 70° F over next 2 days

Secondary Fermentation:

Cold condition secondary fermenter for 1 week at 34°F

Keg/Bottle:

Keg and force carbonate at 30 psi for 2-3 days at 34°F

Bottle prime and carbonate at 70° for 7-14 days

After lautering off a little over 5 gallons of wort I took a gravity reading of almost 1.020 proving to myself that they were still plenty of sugars available to be drawn off from my 11 pounds of grain. I got into the habit of taking gravity readings at 3 critical points during my brewing sessions, when I first begin to lauter, when I have finished lautering and after the boil just before pitching my yeast.

1.090 @ 70F Sample At Start Of Lauter

The initial sample I took showed 1.090 and tasted really sweet, no tannins there. I had 1 bad experience where my all grain batch turned out very astringent and I attribute that to sparging with too hot strike water and too much volume.

An Exhaust Fan Is Required To Remove Boil Vapors

  I recently installed an exhaust fan to remove the wort boil vapors from the basement where I do my brewing. At the opposite end of the basement I leave the window open to draw in fresh air from outside. I recommend that anyone who considers brewing beer indoors includes adequate ventilation in their plans. Removing the odors and hot vapors created during a typical brewing session will go a long way in keeping living area  healthy.

Doing Dual 2.5 Gallon Boils At Once Is Easy

  Since I brew indoors on my stovetop I split the 5 gallons of wort collected into two 12 quart pots so I can get them both up to full boil quickly.The trick to getting roughly same same OG in both pots during the lauter is to alternate between the 2 pots when filling them.

Fly Sparge Using A Stationary Diffuser Gives Great Results

I fly sparge and take at least 30 minutes to fill both boil pots with sweet wort. The new bracket I made to hold my sparge diffuser really worked out well for me. I was able to pour 168F strike water into the top of the mash tun without having to hold and balance the diffuser with one hand.

1.020 @ 70F Sample At End Of Lauter

After filling both boil pots with about 11.5 quarts of sweet wort I took another hydrometer reading to see how much sugar was still left in the 11 pounds of grains. This sample still tasted sweet, no tannins or astringent tastes were present, the reading was 1.020 which is above my 1.010 minimum threshold for lautering.

Transferring the cooled wort to the fermenters has become so easy I almost can't wait to use my auto-siphon when I brew, it works that well. The wort I rack to the fermenter is cleaner too, much of the trub is left behind in the boil pot so the wort that does make it into the fermenters is cleaner. During the boils I've also been ladling off a lot of the hotbreak and foam that accumulates on the top of the boiling wort.

Original Gravity Showed 1.060 @ 70F

My original gravity readings confirmed I came very close to hitting my target OG of 1.062 proving that my mash conversion efficiency was what I had expected. I pitched a 1/2 a tube of WLP-005 into each of the 2 sanitized Mr. Beer fermenters at 70F after aerating the wort into a foam.

Aggressive Fermentations Developed After 24 Hours

About 24 hours later both fermenters showed very active fermentation and a nice trub layer on the bottom, a sure sign that there would be more great tasting beer to come. While I keep an eye on these two latest batches of SPA this week I'll be also be bottling up the two previous batches I brewed on May 28th. 



The final gravity reading taken just before bottling came very close to my 1.015 target and after 2 days of getting the same 1.017 hydrometer reading it was time to bottle. 

1.017 Final Gravity Before Bottling

Bottling Day:

Re-purposed Sierra Nevada Bottle Rinse

Since I was able to make a connection where I can buy Sierra Nevada Pale Ale bottles that ship with free beer inside, I haven't been buying too many empty longnecks. I like the Sierra Nevada bottles because they are shorter and stubbier than the standard 12 ounce longnecks and are easy to tell apart.

After soaking the bottles in a mixture of OxiClean FREE and water for at least an hour I peel off the paper labels and scrap the remaining glue off with the edge of a plastic ruler. I let the bottles dry on the outside before putting my vinyl labels on them permanently. 

Bottles Filled With One-Step Soak For 10 Minutes

I used my priming calculator to determine how much pure cane sugar would be needed to carbonate 2.25 gallons of beer, the answer was 5 tablespoons. I filled a small pot with about a cup of filtered water and brought it to a boil. Then I stirred in the 5 tablespoons of pure cane sugar and let it boil for about 5 minutes.

5 Tablespoons Of Pure Cane Sugar And 1 Cup Of Water

I cooled the sugar 'syrup' and poured it into a sanitized keg that I used as my bottling bucket. Then I transferred the fermented beer from the primary fermenter to the bottling bucket, right on top of the sugar syrup so it mixed in well. 

Transfer Using A Short Length Of 5/16 ID Vinyl Tubing

Once the beer and sugar were in the bottling bucket I gently stirred the mixture for a minute using a sanitized spoon. The stirring helps evenly distribute the beer and sugar which will make the finished bottles have more consistent carbonation levels.

Bench Capper Made Short Work Of Capping The Bottles

I used a bottling wand and locking spigot to bottom fill each bottle and placed a sanitized bottle cap on each until I was ready to cap them all. The long arm and stable base of the capper made it very easy to cap a case of bottles once they were filled.

Bottling Sample Of My Screwy Pale Ale Recipe

The samples we tasted were really perfect having a nice hoppy character, somewhat sweet and that coveted biscuity finish. There was nothing harsh about this beer at all in fact the flavor, smell and aromas came together to make this a truly memorable beer. This will make for some good beer drinking come July 4th when the carbonation should be completed.

Screwy Pale Ale On July 1, 2011

Another winner in my book! This beer had a beautiful 14 SRM color that fell within the very upper limits of an English IPA beer style. There was a nice carbonation level that produced a creamy head of foam that lasted through the entire beer. The hops were prominent but not too overpowering, the IBU were about 5 points higher than the classic IPA style, and there was a nice biscuit finish. All in all this recipe gets my 2 beers up award and has earned a place in my standard recipe library as one to brew again. 

Screwy's Double Recipe #51 - Extra Special Strong Bitter (All Grain)

This recipe is a retake on my latest attempt, 2 weeks ago, to brew the perfect ESB using all grain, select hops and the yeast pitched in my previous ESB fermentation. I call it a double recipe because of the way it's brewed. I used 11 pounds of grain and 7 ounces of hops in this recipe. The recipe is calculated using a 4.25 gallon batch size, which is 2 times the volume of a Mr. Beer keg, this way I can fill 2 Mr. Beer kegs from a single batch.

Marris Otter, Biscuit, Fuggle, Kent Golding, Willamette and WLP005

The trick to doing a double batch using my method is to have two 12 quart boil pots filled with hot wort during the lautering process. I now put 1.5 ounces of Fuggle hops in each of the 2 boil pots at the start of the lauter and then alternate between the 2 pots when filling. If you completely fill one pot before filling the second pot the first would have a much higher OG than the second.

3 Ounces Of Fuggle First Wort Hops In 2 Boil Pots

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Recipe:

Click to download this recipe file for qBrew 
Size 4.25 gallons: Estimated IBU=66, SRM=11, OG=1.073, FG=1.018, ABV=7.1%

10.0 pounds Marris Otter Malt (UK)

  1.0 pounds Biscuit Malt (Belgium)

 3.0 ounces Fuggle (U.K.) hops (first wort hops)

 2.0 ounces Kent Goldings (U.K.) hops (15 mins)

 2.0 ounces Willamette hops (7 mins)

1 Tube White Labs WLP005 - British Ale Yeast™ 

Aerate, pitch at 70° F and ferment at 66° F for 12 days

Raise to 70° F over days 13 to 14 then rack to secondary fermenter

Cold condition secondary fermenter for 1 week at 34° F

Keg at 30 psi for 2-3 days and serve at 34° F

Mash at 156° F for 90 minutes.

Boil for 60 minutes.

Ferment at 66° F (18.8 °C).

Directions:  

** Infusion mash at 156°F for 90 minutes ** 

(Soak mash tun in 8 quarts of 180° F water for 20 minutes to pre heat it)

Heat 21 quarts of filtered water to 174° F

Pour 14 quarts of 174° F water into mash tun

Mix in 11.0 pounds of crushed grain mix at 58° F

Pour the remaining 174° F water to fill mash tun to 4.50 gallon mark

Stir water and grain mixture and adjust to 156°F and mash for 90 minutes

Sparge with 170° F strike water to set mash bed to 168° F

(Split these quantities between both boil pots)

Add 3 ounces of Fuggles (UK) hops to boil pots as first wort hop addition

Lauter for 30 minutes adding 11.5 quarts of sweet wort to both boil pots

Full Wort Boil:

Add 2 ounce Kent Goldings (U.K.) hops with 15 minutes remaining to boil

Add 1/8 tablet WhirlFloc with 9 minutes remaining to boil

Add 2 ounce Willamette hops with 7 minutes minutes remaining to boil

Use Screwy's Cooler wort chiller to cool wort to 70°F

Primary Fermentation:

Pour wort through strainer to remove excess hop and grain debris

Fill the Mr. Beer fermenter with wort to just above the 8.5 quart mark

Aerate wort and pitch 1 package of Wyeast 1968 (London ESB) at 70°F or WLP005

Ferment at 68°F for 12 days, raise to 70°F over days 13 to 14 for rest
** WLP005 Rouse yeast occasionally if needed to promote fermentation

Secondary Fermentation:

Rack to secondary fermenter

Cold condition secondary fermenter for 1 week at 34°F

Keg/Bottle:

Keg and force carbonate at 30 psi for 2-3 days at 34°F

Bottle prime and carbonate at 70° for 7-14 days

Setting The Grain Bed For Before The 30 Minute Lauter

I use a 5 gallon mash tun that I made myself with parts purchased from Home Depot. I used the calculation below to determine how much water and at what temperature it had to be added to hit my 156° F mash temperature. I set my mash thickness to 1.25 using 11 pounds of grain and that came out to 13.75 quarts of water

** Infusion mash at 156° F for 90 minutes **

Mash Thickness:   11.0 * 1.25 = 13.75 quarts

Grain Absorption: 11.0 *  .13 =  6.0  quarts

                               ---------------

                                19.75 quarts 174°F (Strike Water)

The combined grain and water mash volume would take up 4.32 gallons of space in my 5 gallon mash tun, leaving me a little over .5 gallon of room for making temperature adjustments if needed.  Using a Strike Temperature Calculator I found that a mash thickness of 1.25 and a grain temperature of 58° F would require the strike water temperature to be 174° F to hit the 156° F mash temperature.

Two 12 Quart Boil Pots One Boils 60 Minutes The Other 90 Minutes

By boiling one pot for 90 minutes and the other pot for 60 minutes I am able to use a wort chiller to cool the first pot down to pitching temperature and pitch the yeast with about 10 minutes to spare before the end of the second pot's boil. This saves considerable time over doing two 90 minute mashes followed by two 60-90 minute boils.

Wort Chiller Quickly Lowers The Temperature For Pitching

As the wort was cooling down I filled a keg from one of the Mr. Beer fermenters that had my original ESB recipe in it for 14 days. I left about 1/4 inch of beer on top of the trub at the bottom and screwed the lid back on it for safe keeping until I was ready to pour the cooled wort into it. 

Kegging The Original ESB Recipe To Make Room In The Fermenter

Once the wort had been cooled down to the same temperature as the trub in the fermenter I poured it directly into the fermenter stirring up the trub and yeast that was left there after filling my keg. 

Trub And Yeast Reused From The Previous Fermentation

Pouring the cooled wort directly onto the trub at the bottom of the fermenter allows air to get mixed into the wort and it also breaks the trub up into smaller pieces. This has the same effect as aerating the wort before pitching new yeast.

Pouring Directly Onto Trub Aerated The Wort

Five hours later I looked in to see a nice thick layer of krausen at the top of both fermenters. The temperature inside the fermenters had already climbed a few degrees.

Fermenters With Thick Krausen After 5 Hours

By the next morning both fermenters had really taken off, the krausen was touching the tops of the lids and the inside temperature had risen to 70° F  a full 5° F higher than room temperature.

Fast And Furious Fermentation In Action